The Perennial Appeal of Green Gems

Stroll into the American Museum of Natural History in New York right now and you will find a welcome addition to the gallery: 44 pieces of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, each with verdant gemstones. The treasures have been grouped together in an exhibition titled “Garden of Green,” which runs until January 2024. It offers up a forest of malachite, peridot, chrysoprase, jade and — of course — emeralds.

My Muse Cocoon Bougainvillea cuff in 18-karat gold with tsavorites and pink sapphires. (Nada Ghazal)

While the exhibition is a reminder that green gems have been steadily in favor over the past century, it is also a prompt to make us realize how fresh they feel today. Case in point: The Las Vegas shows were brimming with green gemstones.

Cirque Color Candy drop earrings with tourmalines in 14-karat gold. (Jane Taylor)

Green’s connection with nature is obvious, but some jewelers believe the shade’s allure goes deeper. Sergio Antonini speaks of a “serene” gem that works with all skin tones, while Kimberly McDonald points out that it is the color of the heart chakra and “resonates with your energy beyond what your eye can see.”

Sekhmet ring in recycled 18-karat yellow gold, featuring a 3.86-carat, untreated Fuli Gemstones peridot. (Joy BC)

Green opaline bead necklace with an opal and diamonds in 18-karat yellow gold. (Jacquie Aiche)

Others point to fashion trends — those that favor green gems, but also shades that work well with green; the list is long. On top of that, green is considered a symbol of luck, vitality and rebirth. This is a color brimming with positivity.

Hatshepsut Lock bracelet in Sterling silver and 14-karat gold, featuring a 1.71-carat emerald and diamonds. (Marla Aaron)

Jewelers report that fine emeralds are selling well in the US market, but for those seeking alternatives, there are plenty of choices. Tsavorite, demantoid garnet, tourmaline, jasper, Oregon sunstone, peacock pearls, and even green diamonds if you can find them.

Indian-inspired carved-emerald cuff in 18-karat gold with diamonds, circa 1971, on display at the American Museum of Natural History. (Van Cleef & Arpels)